Yesterday we went on a cultural walk through a few of the southern most villages in Taveuni... Vuna, Kanacea and Navakawau. It is absolutely amazing to see first hand how the indigenous people of Fiji live. Suli (a local guide from Kanacea) translated for us and told us stories about the land, its people and the history of Taveuni.
Just north of Vuna there is a gigantic Baka Tree which offers unbelievable shade from the burning hot sun, and is also shelter in the rain! This picture only shows a small part of the tree - I think you'd need a helicopter to get a photo of the whole thing!
We also came across a black sand beach where the locals had two cow carcasses layed out on the sand. They were cutting it up into pieces and using it as bait to catch a shark that had become stuck in the shallow waters in front of the coral reef at low tide. We didn't see them catch the shark because we had to get going, but it was interesting to see them out in the water with spears and a circling shark - you wouldn't have seen me out in that water!!
After a short drive south through the biggest copra plantation I have ever seen, we arrived in Vuna, where we were required to go to the chief's house to offer a sevusevu (gift) in order to be welcomed and gain official permission to enter the village. In Vuna's case, the chief died 3 years ago and they are yet to appoint a new chief, so we spoke to the chief's representatives - a couple of older ladies in a modest house - and offered them gifts of kava. After their welcome, the ladies showed us how to weave their traditional mats from Pandanas Trees, and we told them we'd love to buy one from them - will definitely put an order in and pick it up when we can.
In Vuna, we were invited into one of the houses (pictured) to have a piece of homemade custard pie with the family. Apparently the villagers are trying to raise money for the Primary School so we gave them a small donation to show our appreciation of their hospitality.
Each house is home to 10-20 people who sleep on woven mats on the floor. Some houses don't have windows or doors, and there is no flyscreen to keep out the mosquitos, but they seem to be the happiest and friendliest people we have ever met!! Nappies are hard to come by so most of the little babies run around with no pants on. Most of the houses don't have toilets but some of them have small corrugated iron rooms with old Milo tins!! Other people just use the rainforest.
In Taveuni, most families make their minimal income from sales of woven mats and masi (tapa) cloth paintings, dalo (known as taro in most Pacific nations), kava (pictured), fishing and other vegetable crops. Land is handed down through the family generations and most of the villagers will live their entire lives in these types of family homes with minimal contact with the outside world.
We were amazed to see a couple of brand new water tanks in the village and were shocked when we heard the new Military Government (who seem to get only negative publicity in Australia) were the ones who donated the tanks! We've actually heard a few really positive stories from the local people about the new government, even if they don't agree with the way in which President Bainamarama is going about it. As usual, the Australian media only publishes the 'controversial' news to gain sales - nobody wants to read 'good' stories right? I am still undecided about my feelings towards the government, so I've decided to try to find out more about it before I take on any sort of opinion about it!
We had a picnic lunch (tuna pasta and coconut cake) at the blowhole on the south cape of Taveuni. It is similar to the one in Kiama NSW but the rock is all volcanic. The view was absolutely breathtaking from up there and we couldn't help to think about Jessica Watson being out in the deep ocean all by herself - what an adventure she must be having - she's a lot braver than I'll ever be that's for sure!
Safety isn't an issue in Taveuni. Everyone seems to know each other, and even the Policemen have told us they get quite bored sitting in their post for years without actually doing anything!! Luckily for them they have a good gym they can use :)
Tomorrow is Prize Giving day at Naselesele Primary school so Tyla and I will be heading over for that. It's also the start of the Northern Fiji Rugby 7's tournament which is being held in Wairiki until Saturday, so we hope to make it over there for that too!
